Coloring your hair for the first time

Are you excited?! This is always my first question to a virgin hair guest who is about to make a hair transformation. It is exciting but can also be nerve-racking.

I want to tell you all how hair coloring works and how to be prepared for your first color appointment. If I don’t answer all of your questions, please comment below and I will do a follow-up blog.

How long will the appointment take?
I always prefer to give myself two and half hours per client, however, this varies depending on length, thickness, and what we will be doing with your hair. For virgin hair, I tend to move slower as I want to make sure the client doesn’t feel rushed and is happy with the finished product. More time means more opportunity to perfect every strand of hair.

Should I wash my hair before or leave it dirty?
If you have read any of my other blogs, you will know that I am partial and love dirty hair. However, it truly doesn’t matter! Dirty or clean, the color will stick. I only request that your hair isn’t wet or damp so I can see it in its natural state prior to coloring it.

If you are doing any lightening on the root, I recommend not washing your hair for three days before. The less irritated the scalp, the less the bleach will bother it. Typically, the first time coloring your hair won’t be a coloring job that big, but it is something to keep in mind for future color appointments.

Should I bring in pictures?
Yes, please! Pictures are great! I can’t read my clients’ minds or envision what they see, so a visual aid is incredibly helpful to determine what the goal of the appointment is.  For instance, what you consider to be a warm blonde and what I consider to be a warm blonde could be very different, so bringing in visuals is often more helpful than verbal descriptions. Beyond that, I just love to see pictures of the styles you like and dislike. Having a clear understanding of the direction my clients want to go with their hair makes for a successful hair journey.

What type of maintenance are we talking about?
In my dream world I would see every client at the most every 8 weeks. However, like  I said, that is in my dream world! I understand that life is busy and demanding, and our hair isn’t typically our top priority. Despite this, keeping up with color and cuts is important for all hair, but especially hair that has big color jobs. I always say hair is the one accessory that you can’t take off ;)

Here’s a breakdown of how often you should come in for an appointment depending on your color job:

• Natural Bayalage: 12 weeks
• Bright Bayalage: 6-8 weeks
• Highlights: 6 weeks
• Root lightening: 4 weeks
• Grey coverage: 4 weeks
• Demi-permanent gloss: 12 weeks
• Cut: 8-12 weeks

Is it going to damage my hair?
I don’t usually recommend making several dramatic changes in one appointment because it can lead to damage, but there are solutions we can do to limit the damage. One of these is using a bond builder. My favorite is Olaplex. When hair is lightened or colored, its bonds break down so the color can penetrate the hair strand to remove its natural color. Olaplex is added to your color to build the bonds back up and seal them down. It makes hair feel healthier and thicker. I recommend it even when simply lightening the hair a few shades. It is an extra charge because the product is extremely expensive, but I find it to be worth it and never color my own hair without it.

For all you virgin hair folks out there, let me tell you that coloring your hair is a blast. I love being able to change and highlight certain features about someone with just a change of hair color. The possibilities are endless with some patience and a whole lot of lightener. And just remember, life is too short for boring hair :)

Love, Paige

Are my ponytails damaging my hair?

Hi, beautiful people!

Nobody loves a ponytail like I do, but as a stylist, I understand and realize how much damage they can cause. I have figured out a few hacks to enjoy ponytails worry free.

Let's first dive into why it is damaging to your hair. The hair that grows out of your scalp is fragile; it is already dead and needs to be treated gently in order to maintain healthy hair. When your hair is pulled from tight ponytails it is called “traumatic alopecia.” I know, this sounds dramatic, but it's true - it really is dramatic! Tight ponytails can cause your hair to rip from your scalp and break in half. I hope this scares you into taking my advice.

Here is what we can do:

• Instead of wearing a ponytail to bed, try a soft braid. The tension is evenly distributed and when you move around in your sleep, you won't force your hair to pull. If you want to take it a step further, tie your hair with a soft hair tie.
• You go to the gym and need your hair pulled back... I get it. Ponytails matter! An alternative to the classic pony could be a topknot or even a cool braid. I found on my runs that if I wear a hat and pull the ponytail through the loop my ponytail is held in place, and the hat blocks sweat from going down my face.
• Toss your rubber bands, please! Those are notorious for causing an immense amount of breakage. We have quite a few options but my personal favorite is the creaseless hair ties.

I hope you guys enjoy these tips and use them. Let me know if you have any questions.

Love, Paige

Grow your Hair Fast!

Here is what I believe to be every girl's dream: to cut her hair and have it grow back in a month. I agree that would be ideal, but unfortunately, I don’t have the magic potion for that. Instead, I have something a little different! Today I will share about my favorite hair mask that quickens hair growth. 

A pumpkin seed oil and peppermint essential oil mask is my favorite for hair growth.

Let's break down why this works:
Pumpkin seed oil is one of the most underrated miracle hair growth supplements; it encourages fast hair growth and the thickening of hair. Pumpkin seed oil can actually be used for many health benefits and can be taken in a pill form. I prefer to use it directly on my scalp for hair growth, but for those of you with thinning hair who are looking to thicken it, the supplements would be recommended. Because it has many mineral antioxidants and nutrients including vitamin E, magnesium, zinc, and iron, pumpkin seed oil not only helps with hair growth but also nourishes healthy hair follicles, which are the root of all hair growth. With hair loss or Androgenic Alopecia, pumpkin seed oil or peppermint oil will help with dandruff or clogged hair follicles, giving you a clean scalp - something that is necessary for hair growth.

Peppermint oil.. talk about tingly! When placed on the scalp, you will feel tons of tingling that is really just stimulating your scalp. That is what encourages hair growth. During this tingling, the peppermint oil is also balancing your scalp's PH. And keep in mind that a healthy scalp is one that produces healthy hair, so these natural ingredients will help not only help hair growth but will keep your hair healthy as well.

How to make the hair mask:

1. I like to measure out about half a cup of pumpkin seed oil and 5-6 drops of peppermint oil. You want it to be at room temperature. Combine the two oils to make the mask.
2. Place the mask on your scalp and massage it in. I usually flip my hair upside down and take my time brushing my hair gently while the brush massages my scalp.
3. I wear a shower cap while I sleep, and sometimes I tie on an old headband to keep the oil from dripping.
4. Shower the next morning. When washing out the mask, remember that the peppermint oil will diffuse into the steamy shower air, so I recommend keeping your eyes closed (trust me, I learned the hard way).

You can do this as many times as you like, but I only do it once a week.

This is the first of many things you can do to help your hair grow. Be on the lookout for another blog coming soon that will continue on this topic! Until then, I hope you all have beautiful hair days!

Love, Paige

Going Blonder

“If you haven’t gone through your blonde phase have you even lived in the hair color world?”
- Basic Paige

Just kidding. But seriously, everyone has been there! Either is has been done well or it has given you PTSD.

Friends, let's talk blonde.

The darker you are naturally the more warmth you have to work through to get to a nice clean blonde. Dark hair has to work through red, orange and then yellow. To get rid of this warmth, your hair must go through toning, which will counteract/cancel out the warmth. But, keep in mind that everyone has warmth and goes brassy over time (dark hair more so than light hair).

There is nothing more frustrating than a client saying, “I know I haven’t seen you in a year, but my hair has gotten really brassy.” I know getting into the salon can be hard. Life happens and it isn't always in the budget, schedule and it isn't always a priority. However, like most things, hair does not stay perfect if it has been neglected over a period of time. The key to going blonde is maintenance - being blonde requires maintenance. When your hair gets more blonde, its bonds break down and remove the eumelanin and melanin that make up your natural hair color. We lift the desired amount and then tone out the natural warmth left. The toner or gloss, as I call it, sits inside your cuticle, but every time your hair hits water your cuticle gets lifted and the color washes out. The more you wash the less your color lasts.

But, no need to fear! Here are some tips and tricks we can do:

1. Olaplex. It is a pure gold juice - a.k.a it's a bond builder that not only helps protect your hair but also seals down your cuticle. When your cuticle is sealed, your color lasts longer. I recommend it anytime you are going lighter.

2. Be patient. If we take our time going lighter, we can do it gently and preserve your hair. I have found that my favorite blondes take their time and progress into their color. I usually alternate between bayalage and a melted highlight. If you don’t know what this is, take a look at my earlier blog on it.

3. Purchase the proper products. Y'all might think I am crazy for saying this again and again, but trust me! You need to protect your hair every day. You need a proper leave-in, protectant and serum. These things will be great for your color and your hair. That long blonde hair that every girl dreams of requires work but is possible with the right products.

4. Purple is your best friend. Purchase a purple conditioner. You might wonder, why conditioner and not shampoo? I am biased because I try to steer clients away from using shampoo altogether, but there isn’t a single purple shampoo that I don’t find extremely harsh on the hair. Purple shampoos lift the cuticle and place purple molecules inside the hair, which you can imagine is incredibly harsh on the hair. I would much rather have my clients use a purple conditioner once a week and leave it on their hair for 10-15 minutes. This not only helps the tone but also keeps the hair healthier.

5. Visit me. Regular 6-8 week visits make a huge difference to hair. We will keep your hair healthy and beautiful and give you the happy hair you dream of!

Love, Paige

Curly Girls' Product: Texture ID

Hey ya’ll,

Curly girls, this is for you! I have tried and loved the new Texture ID product line. My natural curls are soft and touchable, and amazingly, the product was light enough for me to blow dry my hair and have it still maintain a proper hold. Here's a little more about each product:

Thermal Multi-Styling Foam
I really enjoyed the “Thermal Multi-Styling Foam” and highly recommend it for people who need to give their curls a little love. It forms your curls with a light hold and adds volume, but doesn’t leave a sticky residue. In other words, it's basically curly girls' dream come true! The foam has wheat protein and argan oil, which helps hair with its gains; the protein makes your hair stronger and the argan oil gives it softness. It is an alcohol-free product as well which is always very important for curly girls because alcohol is drying and damaging to the hair. I have found that a little goes a long way with the foam, and it is best used to scrunch up into your hair when your hair is 50% dry. As for drying, I have tried air drying and diffusing, but between the two, I really loved the effect of air drying.

Styling Cre'me
I found the “Styling Cre’me” was very necessary when using the foam. The foam was perfect in maintaining hold and volume but I still needed a little smoothing. The cre'me did the trick! It gave me soft, less frizzy curls that felt very natural, touchable and light.

Conditioner
Next, I tried the conditioner. It felt very light and basic - it gave my hair extreme moisture but didn’t weigh it down. I am consistently coloring and styling my hair so it is in desperate need of moisture, so this part of the product was great! However, I missed the weighing down aspect which is so important with curly hair.

Masque
The masque is a new favorite! I felt like a new woman after taking a long bath with the hair masque in. Clearly, I highly recommend it! It felt like heaven on my damaged hair. 

Overall, I was very pleased with this product line for us curly girls. I hope my experiences and explanation of each product will inspire you to try them for yourselves. As always, let me know if I can be of any assistance as you look into this product line and if you do try it, let me know your own take on it all!

Have a good hair day :)

Love, Paige

What is the difference between drugstore and salon products?

My second most asked question.

I am taking us back to middle school science class to explain why quality is better over quantity. Let's use ingredients as the example.

Pantene Nourishing Shampoo
Water, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycol Distearate, Sodium Citrate, Cocamide Mea, Sodium Xylenesulfonate, Dimethicone, Fragrance, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Polyquaternium-76, Sodium Chloride, Tetrasodium Edta, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Panthenol, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone.

The first problem is with the first ingredient: Water. You are paying for a product that is largely made up of water. This means that you are using more shampoo than necessary, and therefore, are probably spending more money than necessary. Water also has a negative affect on your hair. Shocking, right? Water PH is anywhere from 6 to 8.5, while hair PH is 4.5 to 5.5, meaning that hair has more acid than alkaline.

Why is this important?

When you rinse your hair with water, you are rinsing it with a substance that has more alkaline than acid, which lifts the cuticle layer. The lifting of the cuticle layer is what we describe as split ends or frizziness. With this hair product, you are damaging your hair each time you wash it.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is what makes our showers sudsy and what makes us feel like we are truly cleaning our scalp. Sulfates have been around since the 1800s. They have been used in shampoos because they are a surfactant. Surfactants attract oil and water and remove the oil from the scalp(as you may remember from middle school, oil and water don’t mix). Sulfates are a great cleanser, but also a great stripper of color and those natural oils that keep your hair healthy and color vibrant. As you can see, Sulfate is the third ingredient in the shampoo.

These first three ingredients are stripping and drying to the hair!

Now I won't bore you with the whole ingredients list - let's look at a common, higher-end shampoo.

Living Proof Perfect Hair Day Shampoo
Water/Eau/Aqua, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Decyl Glucoside, Glycol Distearate, Octafluoropentyl Methacrylate (OFPMA), PCA Glyceryl Oleate, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, IPDI/PEG-15 Soyamine Copolymer Dimer Dilinoleate, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate (Thickening Agent), PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleammonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-47, Laureth-4, Laureth-23, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glyceride, Fragrance/Parfum, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Citronellol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Magnesium Nitrate, Magnesium Chloride.

Again, the first ingredient is water and this time, the second is Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate. I know this sounds like lots of mumbo jumbo, but here is what it is: It is a oil base product that prevents separating and is a foaming agent. This is basically what sulfates do but in a more gentle and natural way. It leaves skin and hair significantly stronger then sulfates do.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is also another form of a surfactant that helps cleanse the hair of oil, but unlike sulfates, it is an oil-based product. That means that as it cleanses, it moisturizes.

You truly pay for the ingredients in your hair products, which is why you can feel quality when you use quality. It is amazing how proper products can change a head of hair. I promise you friends; you get what you pay for!

Can’t wait to see you in my chair!

Love, Paige

Why I Stopped Shampooing Hair

Yes, I know this sounds disgusting, but the results are in: my hair has never felt better! I have found that my hair is healthier, shinier and growing like crazy.

 Disclaimer: My hair texture is thick and curly so it absorbs oils easily. Also, because I was already going 5 days without shampooing my hair, it was already well trained.

Let's break down the reasons I stopped shampooing:

1. It strips the oils of your hair. 
   The oil your hair produces is called sebum, and its purpose is to seal down and protect your hair.
2. The chemicals in shampoo are toxic.
   Parbens, Sulfates, and many other cancer causing chemicals live in the products we put on our heads every day!
3. It preserves your color longer.
   Water is already stripping enough without shampoo added to the mix.

What does shampoo do?

Shampoo is a surfactant. It causes the oil to cling to water and remove it from your scalp. It is during that process in which the cuticle is lifted. A lifted cuticle causes the color to fall out of the inner cortex, and furthermore, it is the gateway to split ends. 

What about the oils?

When you stop shampooing your hair you will notice your scalp getting oily, but over the next week the oils significantly decrease. Your scalp produces oil because it is dry, so the more you shampoo the more oils there are. These oils are made up of everything your hair needs to stay healthy. I find that when I just rinse and condition, the oils distribute equally over my entire hair strand.

So does it feel gross?

No! My hair has never felt better. For the first time my hair feels soft, healthy and strong.

How do I get started?

Talk to me. Come on in and we can discuss your game plan to work towards your healthiest hair. For of those of you not in drivable distance, I recommend starting slowly. Start by rinsing on the day you would normally shampoo. Give it a shot! You never know, it could lead you to growing your dream hair.

Good luck pretty ladies!

Love, Paige

What is Bayalage?

The most common question I receive.

Bayalage is a French word for sweeping. It is a technique where a hairstylist paints on lightness in a sweeping motion. It could be done with a plethora of techniques. You tease, squeeze, or hold the hair at a degree in order to get the affect of bayalage.

You think I am kidding?

Teasylights: A form of bayalage that you tease the hair before painting to guarantee a soft blend. I personally don’t like this method because of the damage it does to your hair. It is a long process to not only tease it but un-tease it.

Bayalaroo Color Applicator: A handy device where you place the color in plastic applicator then squeeze on the hair to get full saturation.

Hold at a degree: My personal favorite technique for bayalage, but also the most challenging and time consuming. You hold the hair at a 45- 90 degree angle as you paint on the lightness. It can be done open air, in foil, or even cellophane wrap. This takes a special eye and gentle touch to get the best blend possible.

Bayalage is such a wide term that I always suggest bringing in photos. You might even realize that what you are truly looking for is a melted highlight.

Melted highlight: If bayalage and highlights had a baby you would get a melted highlight. I find that the combo of melts and bayalage are the perfect combination for gorgeous hair. I love to do our first appointment with bayalage to get all over lightness. At the second appointment you put a melt in and it makes everything pop. With the melt you can soften the base and then add significant lightness with in the foil. When you do that after bayalage you get this beautiful dimensional base with lighter ends and pops of brighter pieces. Bayalage and a melted highlight is the perfect combination for that perfect lived in hair.

Hope to see you in my chair soon,

Love Paige

What started this passion?

I wish I had one of those ah ha moments everyone talks about, but I didn’t. I was confused about my future and my very wise parents said “What do you research on your own without anyone forcing you too?” Makeup. I was a YouTube fanatic that had her regular bloggers that I watched religiously. My dad simply replied with “then go to cosmetology school you ding dong.” 

I was one of the fortunate ones to have my parents be that supportive and I am still extremely grateful. They went with me as I toured schools which made me feel like they respected my decision for my career. I then found Toni and Guy. 

The rest is history. I moved to Santa Monica and attended Toni and Guy Hairdressing Academy. I have never loved a school like my love for Toni and Guy. I had the opportunity to work fashion shows, photo shoots, and editorial challenges. I felt true passion and creativity come together. It made me realize there is so much more to hair then just behind the chair. Hair had become my obsession. 

Three years later and now I work on the beautiful Central Coast of California. My passion has grown in those three years and I feel like I am exactly where I am supposed to be. I love working at Gypsy and Oak Salon. The vibe is exactly what I want and my clients have never been happier there. With the small space it creates a personal feel. The atmosphere is sweet and light. With the many things other added bonuses the salon is comfortable, relaxing, and home. That is what I strive for is to not only create beautiful hair, but also for you to feel extremely comfortable. I want you to feel loved every time you work through the door and I believe this salon does that.

I hope you can stop by soon pretty ladies,

Love Paige